Painted 28mm Perry Henry V Command Stand

This is a Piquet Band of Brothers command stand I painted for Henry V. The figures are 28mm Perry Miniatures and the flag is from Battleflag. The flag is mounted on a hollow tube and is removable. Henry V is a Superior commander in my games. Attaching him to a unit gives it an UP2 in Melee and an UP2 in Morale since his presence includes his personal household. and retainers.

The figure is a very impressive sculpt with great detail for the heraldry.


Sir John Codrington was Henry's standard bearer at Agincourt. I painted his heraldry by hand. Thank God for my optivisor! Unfortunately, even with my enhanced vision, I missed a few tiny strands from my hot glue gun that have tangled on Henry. I guess Henry is fighting through a spider's web.

Piquet Ramblings 3: Chipping away at your morale.

Frederick ran from his headquarters in terror. All around him, his soldiers were routing, their eyes wide with fear. Suddenly, a horseman galloped out of the smoke with an extra horse.

Frederick recognized the old marshal. "Dessau?"

"Mount up, you young fool! The Hungarians are upon us!"

Frederick hopped upon the Dessauer's spare mount. Through the night and into the next day, the pair rode to put distance between themselves and Frederick's latest disaster. Frederick marvelled at the Old Dessauer's endurance in the saddle. It was hard to believe the old bastard had been campaigning for 45 years.

They finally came to a small estate and stopped for some much-needed rest. As Frederick settled down behind a bottle of red wine, the Old Dessauer sat in front of the fireplace, warming his boots in front of the licking flames. They sat for a while until Frederick broke the silence.

"My plan was sound. My infantry failed me."

The Dessauer turned his head and stared through Frederick, "Your cavalry was destroyed by the Austrians. You pushed them forward and they were overwhelmed. It's no surprise that the infantry was shaken."

"But the infantry was in the center. The cavalry were under a separate commander on the right."

The old veteran shook his head and growled, "The infantry was in the center. That is true. But they saw your cavalry crushed and routed from the field. Do you think this had no influence on their morale? Do you think because they serve a different general that this rout would have no effect on them? This is not a game. These are men."

Frederick mulled this over as he drank his wine. He was not finished, "But why DID the infantry run? I acknowledge that those infantry regiments had routed earlier in the morning, but they were rallied and in good order!"

The Old Dessauer creaked out of his chair and walked close to Frederick. He leaned into the young general and whispered in his ear, "You rallied them. That is true. Do you think that they forgot the fear they felt earlier in the day? Did they forget their flight? Do you think the destruction of our cavalry bolstered their courage? They are men, Highness, not game pieces, and the sooner you understand that, the sooner you will become a general."

When I first started to play Piquet, most of my attention was focused on the card sequence decks and the impetus initiative process. I overlooked the morale system and assumed it was just some quantitative measure of the army's endurance. "Army A has 30 morale chips, so when Army A suffers 30 losses, something bad happens." While this is true, the morale chip system actually has a few other aspects that I find interesting.

CHARACTER COUNTS.

Your morale chips are normally determined by cards you draw from the Army Characterization Deck (ACD) before the battle begins. Morale chips can also be established by a particular scenario. The player draws a number of ACD cards based on the size of his army. A better army might draw more ACD cards. For example 1862 Confederates draw an ACD card for every 3 units. 1862 Union draws an ACD card for every 4 units. Elite and Guard units count as two units for ACD draws. A 10 unit Confederate army with 2 elite units would draw the same number of ACD cards (4) as a 16 unit Union army.

The ACD cards can give you a variety of effects. There are 36 cards that give you from 2-10 morale chips each. Then there are 16 cards that each benefit your army's Movement ( add a Movement card), or Command (add a Leadership card or an Opportunity Pip), or Combat (Add a Melee or Reload card, or Morale (bonuses to Morale checks). 4 Stratagem cards can give you 1 of 24 possible sneaky battlefield surprises from a Hidden Ditch to a Flank March to a Stirring Speech.

So, it should be apparent that the ACD deck means that the same army can be very different from battle to battle depending on which ACD cards are drawn. One army might have a lot of morale chips and a guide that can show them a secret path through the woods (Strategem) while its opponent might have less morale chips but an extra Cavalry Move in Open card and UP1 die for Regular Infantry morale.

The one requirement is that you have to get at least as many morale chips as you have units in your army. If you don't meet this minimum total, you have to give up your special ACD cards and and replace them from the ACD deck until the army morale chip total meets the minimum.

Okay, so I pulled my Army Characterization Deck cards for my Early French Hundred Years War army. I have 18 units in my army and my army list gives me an ACD card divisor of 4. In the Early French HYW army, my men-at arms are Elite if they remain mounted, so against my better judgement, I leave two units of knights mounted and hope for the best. The two Elite units boost my unit total to 20 and allow me to draw 5 ACD cards.

I draw an 8 morale chip, a 4 morale chip, a 3 morale chip, an "Add a Brilliant Leader card", and an "Extra Artillery Move" card. This gives me 15 morale chips, 3 less than my unit total. My Early French army needs good leadership to overcome the impulsive nature of its men-at-arms and no artillery units, so I discard the "Artillery Move" ACD card and draw a 9 morale chip card to replace it. Awesome result! A total of 24 morale chips. This levy of early French HYW troops must be well-led and motivated indeed!

THE SIGNIFICANT EMOTIONAL EVENT

Okay, so my army has 24 morale chips. Once I finish a turn in which I have a unit routed, routing, or destroyed, the Major Morale Check card is inserted into my Sequence Deck for the remainder of the game. When I draw this card, I compare the total of my destroyed and routed units with my opponent's total. If I have more losses, I have to take a morale test versus the net difference. My Army CinC can take this test (usually with a d20) for the entire army and has a good chance of passing it as long as I can pay a morale chip for the test. Even if he fails the test, I can then have sub-commanders pay morale chips to take a similar test. By passing this test, they are protecting their units from the Major Morale Check.

If my army has no morale chips left, I can't pay for my leaders to assume the Major Morale Checks and units have to test using their own morale dice. This is typically going to be a d4,d6, or d8 depending on the quality of the unit. Considering that this roll might be versus a 3 or better, units can quickly become disordered or rout as a result of these failures. Running out of morale chips means that my units no longer look to their leaders to motivate them. Every unit now is out to take care of itself. And when it comes to my armies, that usually means running away.

So now that I know what lies at the end of the battle for my brave French knights and their spearmen and various levies they dragged to the battlefield with them, the question is: How do I get to the dreaded status of "NO MORALE CHIPS"?

SPEND THEM LIKE YOU'VE GOT THEM.

I lose a morale chip for each stand loss my 4-stand units take during the battle. I also lose a morale chip each time they lose a melee, rout, or disorder from a failed morale check. So, if my French pavisier unit is in melee, and loses the melee die roll 8-2 ( a difference of 6=6 hits), it loses 2 of its 4 stands (3 hits per stand) in melee, loses the melee, and routs unrallyable (because it was tripled). From this melee alone, I lost 2 morale chips for the stands, 1 morale chip for the melee loss, and 1 morale chip for the rout. A total of 4 morale chips ripped from my total of 24.

You can also spend morale chips to rally your units. When an Officer Check card is drawn from your Sequence Deck, you can spend a morale chip to attempt to rally a routed or disordered unit. Unfortunately, you have to pay the morale chip even if the rally is unsuccessful. The obvious problem is that if you no longer have any morale chips, you can't rally your units anymore. Not fun.

Most of this probably seems pretty familiar and the system seems to basically just measure the exhaustion of the army's morale. You lose morale chips as you suffer setbacks and when your army has suffered enough damage, it won't rally and eventually will break down on a Major Morale Check. There are quite a few sets of wargame rules with systems like this, but the next aspect of the morale chip system is what I like to call "Morale Ascendancy"...okay, I don't call it that. I'm not a complete dipshit, but that basically is what happens SO HERE IT IS:

GETTING THEM ON THE RUN.

In some rulesets, you take morale checks every time certain things happen: A unit loses a combat, a unit is within 12" of a slain commander, a unit is within 12" of a routing unit, etc. In Piquet, YOU decide when your opponent takes a morale test. In fact, you are challenging your opponent's morale. If you caused any hits (not even stand losses) on an enemy unit in shooting or melee, you can challenge the target's morale. This called a Tactical Morale Challenge. The target rolls its morale die (usually a d6) vs. a challenge die the size of which is determined by how much damage you caused on the target.

Cavalry can make a similar morale challenge called a Cavalry Morale Challenge where they can challenge the morale of a unit that enters their general charge zone. Heavier cavalry roll a higher challenge die. Your heavy knights can basically scare the shit out of low morale units that are ordered to approach them. "You want us to get closer to the giant armored bastards on horses!?!"

What makes this cool is that to issue a morale challenge, you have to SPEND a morale chip. If you win the challenge and disorder or rout the target, your opponent also gives up a morale chip, so that's a wash, but if you lose the challenge, your target is fine and you're down 1 precious chip. This means that players will be judicious about when they will challenge morale. Players are less likely to waste morale chips (and gaming time) on challenges they are unlikely to win. Morale challenges will happen where it matters the most, but a player always has the option to gamble and roll the dice on a close challenge if it matters to him.

A player can also spend a morale chip to get one re-roll of a morale check. So, if you get totally boned on a challenge like his d6 vs your d12 and you roll a "1", you can say, "That's bullshit." and roll your d12 again. But it will cost you.

It also means that an army with NO MORALE CHIPS can't challenge its opponent's morale. If the English have been kicking the ass of my French all game long, is an English unit going to suddenly fail morale when it suffers a setback from some missile fire? If they have the French down to NO MORALE CHIPS, it should be pretty clear to the participants that one good French crossbow volley is not going to turn the tide.

THE TIDE TURNS.

This brings up another interesting aspect of the benefits of reducing your opponent to NO MORALE CHIPS. When your opponent would have to normally pay morale chips, but he can't because he has none, you GAIN morale chips. So as your troops merrily hammer away at your poor battered opponent, their morale actually improves. It's as if they can see the impact and feel the momentum as the battle swings in their favor.

Here's an example.

I'm leading in morale chips 5-2. One of my French knight units wins a melee, kills 1 stand and routs its English opponent. The English player has to give up 3 morale chips, but can only pay 2, so I gain 1 morale chip. 6-0. An English longbow unit fires and causes a 1 stand loss (-1 MC), but can't challenge my morale because they have no chips. My French confidently brush off the setback. 5-0. I fire a Genoese crossbow unit and cause a 1 stand loss to a longbow unit. The English again can't pay the chip, so I gain 1. 6-0. I then gamble on a morale challenge with my new morale chip and challenge the longbow unit. 5-0. It fails the challenge, it can't re-roll the check because it has NO MORALE CHIPS and routs (-1 MC), the English can't pay the morale chip, and I get it back. 6-0. Even worse for the English player, with NO MORALE CHIPS, his longbow unit can't be rallied and will rout off the table.

Finally, one of the least common uses for a morale chip is to buy down your opponent's initiative. The common complaint about Piquet is that you have to watch while your opponent uses all of his impetus. The buy down allows you to spend morale chips to reduce the amount of Initiative your opponent won by, but since you don't get those morale chips back, this is definitely a decision to be made only in the most desperate circumstances. Or it's a great way to finish off your opponent by reducing his impetus when you've opened up a big lead in morale chips. I always forget to do this.

Okay, so I hope I've been able to explain a few of the interesting aspects of Piquet's morale chip system.

1. It treats the army as a whole and casualties suffered on one side of the battlefield impact the whole army, not just the poor bastards who survived them.
2. It streamlines the morale check system and lets the challenging player decide when and where morale checks are made.
3. Once you have your opponent on the ropes, your army gains in confidence and is better able to ignore setbacks.

Some supplements, like Hallowed Ground Grand Tactical scale, even allow you to transfer morale chips to subordinate commands. In these games, the morale chips are treated like an abstract form of reinforcements, artillery batteries, extra ammunition that the CinC can move from command to command as needed.

In the end, the morale chips give you a quantitative measurement of an army's fighting endurance that is divorced from the numerical strength of the armies.

HYW Basing Upgrade

Good basing can go a long way to making units look great on the table. We've all seen nicely painted figures based on bases that don't look as good as the figures. For many years, I focused too much on the miniatures and I saw the bases as a necessary evil that just needed to match the table and made the figures easier to move around.

I recently decided to re-base my Hundred Years War army. When I first started painting the army, I wanted to have my figures based individually so I could play Piquet and still use them to play Warhammer Ancient Battles (WAB). I put magnets in the individual bases and used larger, green metal bases to create the bases for my Piquet games. Unfortunately, the metal bases really looked like crap on the wargaming table and the figures would shift around on them.

I chose to convert to a 40mm/2" square base system. I used the 3mm thick wooden Litko bases. The basing was largely decided by what would fit on a base:

• 4 close order spearmen/pikemen on a stand.
• 3 dismounted men-at-arms (MAA) on a stand.
• 3 missile troops on a stand.
• 2 skirmish infantry on a stand.
• 2 horsemen on a 2" square stand.

This basing will make the figures easier to move and allowed me to get rid of the ugly metal bases. The 40mm square bases can work for a lot of different game systems. It also still technically can work for WAB with some adjustments, but my friend Adam, who plays WAB, interpreted my re-basing as a final divorce from the WAB system. Maybe. Maybe not.

Initially, I plan on using 3 bases for my Piquet units. As my army grows, I'll increase the unit size to 4 bases each. The bases will also allow me to model the longbowmen's chevron formation better than my old basing.

Since I planned on re-basing the figures anyway, I thought I might put a little more work into them. After seeing the great bases on James' blog, I thought I would try the Silflor grass tufts to add some vegetation and color to my bases. I ordered three shades of the tufts. They sell sample packs of them at Scenic Express for $5.99 each. They look great. I initially didn't like the bright green ones, but they actually show up much better from a distance than the more natural shades which tend to blend into the ground cover.
My basing process is:

• Stick adhesive magnetic card backing to the bottom of the base.
• Spray paint base brown.
• Hot glue the figures to the base.
• Glue Woodland Scenics dirt ballast to the bases with watered-down white glue
• Glue Woodland Scenics static grass to certain areas of the base.
• Crazy glue Silflor grass tufts to the base with a pair of tweezers. I place three tufts on each base to hide bare spots or just to fill in open areas.

I think the new bases turned out nicely.


(ABOVE) My longbow unit in chevron formation. Old Glory figures with a lot of great character. An excellent value for the price. (BELOW) One of my units of dismounted MAA desperate to come to grips with wealthy opponents. Also Old Glory.


For comparison, I posted some pictures (BELOW) from a battle last year with the old basing system. The new basing really makes a huge difference.

Getting back to the basics: Primer and Varnish

I've tried a lot of new things this year. I now paint with an Optivisor and it has significantly improved my detail painting. I'm also adding Silflor tufts to my bases for my current rebasing project (more on that later).

Two of the new things I tried this year didn't work out as well.

I used to use gray metal primer spray I bought at Home Depot to prime my figures. It was affordable ($6) and the can seemed to last for a while and get pretty good coverage on the figure surfaces. I then would varnish with gloss spray varnish (also $6 from Home Depot) and then finish it off with a spray of Testor's Dullcote to take away the glossy sheen.

While recently at a game store, looking for a new can of my reliable Testor's Dullcote, I was talked into buying a can of Games Workshop black primer. The store manager(?) explained how GW had a carefully designed primer recipe that ensured good coverage without covering up the details of the miniatures. I also bought a spray can of "Purity Seal", the matte varnish spray provided by Games Workshop because the store didn't have any Testors products. I'm an open-minded guy, willing to try new things, but I did sputter a little at the the price tag for the cans ($15 each). Especially for a can named "Purity Seal." Really...

I assumed they would be worth the cost.

The GW black primer seemed to do a good job on my figures, but the can was empty after I primed about 100 figures. And it ran out halfway through a batch of figures!!! I wouldn't mind this if it was my normal Home Depot primer, but for $15, I expected a little more capacity for priming figures.

Unwilling to shell out another $15 for another can of black primer to finish the job, I started to do some research and after visiting Allen Curtis' blog, I read that he had something called "Gesso" that he used for his painting. I vaguely recalled hearing about Gesso, but brush on primer was always something I imagined some 90 year old English gentleman brushed onto his 38mm Seven Years War flats in his library.

I've used spray primer for 20 years and I never tried any other method of priming my figures. I always assumed that spraying the primer was the quickest, most efficient, and best method of applying the primer. I perused the TMP message boards and read quite a few positive reviews of Gesso used as primer.

As I stared at the empty can of GW primer (Why don't they have a name for the primer? Maybe it should be called "100 Figures Made Black"), I began to consider my past experiences with spray primer:

• Even after spray priming the figures, I often have to go over them again with a brush-coat of thinned black paint to cover the angles and crevices the spray can missed. It seems impossible to angle the spray can to completely cover the figure.
• I'm always worried about the humidity, or the temperature, or if the primer will come out fuzzy, or too heavy.
  
• There's nothing like standing out in freezing weather trying to prime outside with a spray can, using your body to prevent the wind from blowing the primer away from the figures.
• The smell. I can prime my figures outside, leave them outside for 3 hours, bring them into the garage, and after 15 minutes, the primer smell will drift through the house and earn me the stinkeye from my significant other.

So, I printed out a 40% coupon for Michaels Craft store, drove out to the store, and picked up the last bottle of Liquitex Black Gesso for $8.40. Once I arrived at home, I squirted out a little of the Gesso, brushed it onto the figures, and it worked great. No smell. No mess or mixing. Great coverage. It looks like it is enough Gesso to prime hundreds of figures. And it didn't obscure the detail on my Perry Miniatures' men-at-arms.

Now, about this Purity Seal. It definitely does the job and takes the gloss shine off of my gloss-varnished figures, but like the primer, it seemed to run out of steam after about 100 figures. It didn't perform any better than my old, reliable Testors Dullcote spray and I can buy at least 3.5 cans for the price of 1 can of GW Purity Seal.

Overall, both GW products produced satisfactory results, but the high cost makes them, in my opinion, a poor investment. Although I have to thank Games Workshop's high prices for giving me the motivation to try out Gesso. I think my wife thanks them too.

French Pavise-armed Spearmen

Here are some pictures of the Perry Miniatures' 28mm Pavisier Infantry that I've been painting. The sculpting of the figures is very nice, but the excellent LBMS shield transfers are what make these units really look great. I plan to finish 4 of these units. They will each have 4 4-figure bases for a total of 16 figures per unit. I can also mix the stands in among my crossbow units to represent pavise-equipped crossbow units.

(BELOW) Troops from Limoge.

(BELOW) Troops from Pontoise.

(BELOW) Troops from Alencon. These guys could also double as non-French heavy infantry.

First Bull Run Battle Report #1

Here is an after action review of a game we played last Sunday using my First Bull Run scenario published in this blog. We used the Piquet" Hallowed Ground rules for this game. The scale is Battalion scale, so units are regiments and artillery are batteries.

(BELOW) View of the battlefield from the South. The Confederates start around Matthews Hill. The lead Union brigades are approaching from the North.

(BELOW) View of the Confederate starting defenses from the Union side of the table.

(ABOVE) The Confederates deploy to meet the Union attack. Jackson's Brigade is deployed to the left of Matthews Hill. They can be seen at the bottom left of the picture.
(ABOVE) Only token Rebel forces were left back on Henry House Hill as the Confederates committed themselves to a forward defense. And on Turn 2, the Union brigades of Sherman and Keyes crossed a barely guarded ford and appeared on the Rebel right flank (BELOW).

(ABOVE) Only a long streak of impetus pips saved the Rebels from disaster. The Union attack was also delayed when Sherman and Porter were both killed by enemy fire. Jackson was able to use the extra impetus to redeploy his brigade from the Confederate left flank to form a defensive line on Henry House Hill. Meanwhile, the other Confederate brigades conducted a fighting withdrawal to pull away from the enveloping Union flanks.


(ABOVE) Stonewall Jackson moves infantry and batteries into line on top of Henry House Hill. Bartow's brigade on the Confederate right flank breaks and flees past Jackson's troops.
(ABOVE) By Turn 5, the Union was pushing the remaining Confederates back toward the Henry House.
(ABOVE) Meanwhile, General Joe Johnston kept a steady stream of Confederate reinforcements heading toward Henry House Hill to bolster Jackson's line.

(ABOVE) Through Turn 6, the Union continued to press its attack toward Jackson's line of gray-clad soldiers.
(ABOVE) As the massive Union assault ground its way toward Henry House Hill, Jackson felt some relief with the arrival of the brigades of Jubal Early and Kirby Smith.
(ABOVE) Midway through Turn 6, here are some close-ups of Jackson's line as they wait for the Union attack to form up and make its assault on Henry House Hill. With 4 turns left, the Union leads the Confederates in morale chips: 14 to 6. It should be interesting.
(ABOVE) Stonewall Jackson himself examines his troop dispositions while General PGT Beauregard looks on apprehensively.

(ABOVE) By TURN 8, the last Confederate survivors make it back to Henry House Hill.

(ABOVE) Sherman's Union regiments enter the woods in skirmish order and open the engagement against Stonewall Jackson's defending infantry on Henry House Hill. They receive a blistering volley that puts several of the attacking units out of action. After those casualties, the skirmishers settled down to occasional sniping at the Rebel lines. A close-up of the action is BELOW.

(ABOVE) TURN 9. More panicked Confederates flee for safety past Jackson's resolute Virginians and JEB Stuart's Black Horse cavalry.

(ABOVE) The Union army presses the assault against Henry House Hill after a brief bombardment by their massed artillery. The Confederate view BELOW.

(ABOVE) A general view of the battlefield toward the end of Turn 9.

(ABOVE) Turn 10, the final turn. Howard's brigade is devastated by plunging cannon fire from Jackson's artillery batteries on Henry House Hill. So much for the Union flanking attempt.

(ABOVE) The final Union assault on Henry Hill begins. But after some success, time runs out and darkness prevents the Union from building on their foothold.

In the end, although the Union army didn't take Henry House Hill, the casualties they inflicted on the Confederates who attempted to retreat were enough to give the Union an 11 morale chip advantage: barely a Union Decisive Victory.